How to Mat Artwork

How to Mat Artwork is an essential skill for any artist who wants to both protect and showcase their pieces beautifully. Matting not only safeguards your artwork but also enhances its presentation by adding a stylish frame. You can select mats in a wide range of colors, sizes, and materials to perfectly complement your art. Learning how to mat artwork on your own takes some time and practice, but it’s definitely worth the effort. By mastering how to mat artwork yourself, you’ll avoid the steep costs of professional framing services while giving your art the protection and display it deserves. With patience and care, how to mat artwork becomes an easy and rewarding process that adds value to every piece you create.

Part 1 Cutting a Mat Board Window

1. Choose a clean workspace for matting. Wipe the area with a damp cloth, then dry it thoroughly. Since you’ll be using your mat board to display your artwork, keeping the space free from dirt and dust is essential. A clean workspace also helps ensure accurate measurements for your art. Avoid using cleaning solutions or soap, as they may damage your materials.

1. Measure your artwork and decide the width of the mat border to determine the total mat board size. Grab your calculator to add the dimensions. First, measure the width and height of your artwork to establish the size of the window—the cutout that will showcase your piece. Then, add the desired border width around the window to get the full mat board dimensions. If you don’t want any visible edges on the artwork’s sides, subtract ¼ inch (0.64 cm) from each side (½ inch or 1.27 cm total) to create a neat edge hidden beneath the mat board. Make sure the mat board size matches your backing board, and measure the backing accordingly.

1. Mark the outer edges of the mat and backing boards. Most mats come in standard sizes and will need trimming to fit your artwork. Using a ruler or tape measure, make light pencil marks in each corner to outline the dimensions.

1. Use the back of your frame to verify measurements. If you plan to frame your matted artwork, both the mat and backing boards must fit perfectly inside the frame. Check your measurements against the frame’s back. If your boards are too large, you may have to reduce the mat border size. Keep in mind that having the frame beforehand limits your flexibility in sizing the mat border, so it might be better to choose your frame after matting.

1. Trace your measurements with a ruler and pencil. Remove the artwork from the mat and backing boards and set it aside. Connect the pencil marks using a ruler to create straight lines, forming two rectangles or squares on the mat board and one on the backing.

1. Cut the backing and mat boards using a straight-edge razor. Firmly press the razor at the top corner and slowly pull it toward you in a steady motion, stopping at the bottom corner. Maintain consistent pressure and avoid veering off the penciled lines. Keeping a straight cut is the most challenging part and critical for a neat finish. Use a straight edge—like an old frame or heavy book—as a guide to help you cut precisely.

1. Cut the mat window multiple times to remove the cut-out smoothly. You shouldn’t need to force the cut-out, as that risks tearing the mat board. Instead, make at least two passes over the same cut line until the piece falls out cleanly. Take your time to ensure each cut follows exactly the same line. You may need several cuts to fully remove the window, so be patient for the best results.

Part 2 Mounting Your Artwork with Tape

1. Measure to center your artwork on the backing. Place your artwork on the backing board and measure the space on each side. Ensure the blank space above and below the artwork is equal, as well as the space on the left and right sides. Make small pencil marks in the corners on the backing to mark the correct position.[8]

1. Check your centering by laying down the mat window. Place the window on top of the artwork to visualize how the final matted piece will look. Take a moment to appreciate the alignment before proceeding.[9]

1. Use a weight to keep your artwork in place. Once centered, secure the artwork using a weight like a coin-filled sock or a heavy glass to prevent shifting. Don’t worry if it moves slightly—you can rely on your pencil marks to maintain positioning.

1. Tape the back of your artwork to the backing. Use linen or archival tape to create a hinge attaching your artwork to the backing. Apply two vertical strips of tape on each side of the artwork’s back, avoiding sticky contact with the backing. Then add two horizontal strips across the vertical tapes, sticky side down, to firmly secure the piece. Linen and archival tape offer strong adhesion without damaging your artwork or mat board. Though more expensive than regular tape, household tapes may contain acids or chemicals that can degrade your art over time.

1. Attach your artwork using photo corners or mounting strips. If using photo corners, peel off the backing adhesive and place one in each corner of the backing board to hold the artwork in place. For transparent mounting strips, use two strips per side (eight total), adhering them to the backing so the artwork can slip under them. Photo corners and mounting strips are ideal for preservation, preventing damage even from archival tape.

1. Attach the window mat by creating a taped hinge. Lay the window mat and backing flush together, with the window face down. Use a long strip of linen tape, placing half on the back of the window and half on the backing, folding them together like closing a book. It’s best to hinge the window and backing along the top edge. Now your matted artwork is ready to be framed for a polished finish. You can also attach an adhesive picture hanger to the backing board to display the matted piece directly on your wall.

Related Reading:

• How to Mat Artwork: External Guide on Art Matting Techniques
• More on Matting Supplies and Tips: Internal Resource on Matting Materials

Part 3 Dry Mounting Your Artwork

1. Purchase equipment if you plan to dry mount. Dry mounting is a more involved and permanent method compared to using tape. If you want a stable, lasting mount and are willing to invest, you’ll need a tacking iron, dry mounting and release tissues, plus a professional heating press.[10]
   • Investing in dry mounting tools is worthwhile if you plan to mount lots of artwork or photos regularly.
   • Dry mount presses can cost several thousand dollars, and tacking irons range from $50 to $100. The tissues are relatively inexpensive.
   • Note that dry mounting is not recommended for older or delicate artwork, as it permanently adheres the piece and is irreversible—so it’s not ideal for conservation purposes.

1. Measure your artwork and window to size the backing board. Decide the border size for your window mat, then measure your artwork. Add these measurements to determine the required backing board size. Mark the corners lightly with pencil to record your measurements.[11]

1. Place artwork face down and lay dry mounting tissue behind it. Prepare a clean workspace. Position your artwork face down and cover it completely with a sheet of dry mounting tissue. Excess tissue will be trimmed later.[12]

1. Attach the center of the print to the tissue with a heated tacking iron. Plug in and heat your tacking iron like a regular iron. Once hot, press it gently in a small circular motion on the center of the tissue-covered artwork to bond the tissue to the back of your piece.

1. Trim off the excess dry mounting tissue. Carefully cut away the extra tissue using scissors or a paper trimmer. Work slowly to ensure straight, neat edges without damaging your artwork.[13]
   • Using a large paper trimmer can help achieve cleaner and more precise cuts.

1. Measure to center your artwork on its backing. Place the artwork face up on the backing board. Measure the space evenly on all sides, making sure the artwork is perfectly centered. Mark the placement with pencil on the backing.[14]

1. Use the tacking iron to attach two corners to the backing. Gently lift two opposite corners one at a time. Use the heated tacking iron to adhere the dry mounting tissue on the back of the artwork to the backing board, moving the iron outward from the center. Secure two opposite corners.[15]

1. Press your print in a heated press for about 1–2 minutes. Place your mounted piece between two pieces of leftover mat board and release paper inside the heated press (about 180℉ or 82.22℃). Close the press and time for 1–2 minutes using a stopwatch.[16]
   • Resin-based photographic paper should be pressed for 60–90 seconds, while fiber-based paper, commonly used for high-quality prints, requires 2–4 minutes.[17]

1. Weigh down the mounted print while it cools. After removing from the press, lay your print face down under a heavy flat object to prevent warping or bubbling during cooling. Only remove the weight when the piece is completely cooled—test by gently lifting a corner and touching the backing with your finger.[18]
   • Use heavy books or coin-filled socks if you don’t have a specialized flattening weight.
   • Ensure your workspace is clean before placing the artwork down to cool.

Related Reading:

• Dry Mounting Basics and Equipment Guide: External Dry Mounting Tutorial
• Tips for Centering and Mounting Artwork: Internal Guide on Artwork Mounting